Kayaking In A Blackwater Swamp

There are many wonderful places to kayak in Georgia, either on your own or through a tour. In March 2026, my husband and I went on a half-day tour with the Savannah Canoe and Kayak company at Ebenezer Creek near the town of Ebenezer. It was a 40-minute-drive from Savannah.

We had a great time. The weather was perfect, and because the creek was experiencing a Spring drought, we could easily see the amazing roots of Bald Cypress Trees lining the creek. Our group of about 15 were led by two guides, who did a terrific job pointing out wildlife and answering questions.

My husband and I shared a tandem kayak, also known as a “divorce boat.” Our guide Melanie calls them “communication boats, because otherwise no one will want to get in them!” Bill and I got along great however, because I had been smart enough to suggest we practice together at home–before kayaking in Georgia.

Origin of the name Ebenezer

The town and creek of Ebenezer are named after the Hebrew phrase stone of help. In I Samuel 7 of the Old Testament, Samuel prays for God to save them from an impending attack by the Philistines. Then God thundered with a great thunder on that day upon the Philistines,¹Holy Bible, King James Edition and helped the Israelites defeat them. Samuel was so thankful for God’s intervention, that he raised a stone marker²Gemini says the stone was likely unhewn, 3 to 5 feet tall, dug into a shallow trench, and propped up with smaller support stones at its base. (Armstrong Institute of Biblical Archaeology – The Standing Stones of Israel. and called it Ebenezer, for “Hitherto hath the Lord helped us.”

The Ebenezer Creek Massacre

Unfortunately, God didn’t help the enslaved who were escaping slavery by following Union General Jefferson C. Davis (not to be confused with the Confederate President) on December 9, 1864. During a break in the kayaking, our guide, Bryce, related the story:

As part of Major General Sherman’s march to the sea, Brigadier General Jefferson C. Davis and his XIV corps marched through Effingham County southeast toward Savannah. Even though Davis fought for the North, he was against emancipation of the enslaved. He was not a good man; in fact, he had been previously imprisoned for murder, but was let out of jail because he was a good general and Sherman needed him.

On their march toward Savannah, Davis and his troops came up to Ebenezer Creek. Hundreds of escaped slaves (also known as contraband) followed behind, seeking protection and food as they fled with the union soldiers toward freedom.

The confederates were hot on their trail, so Davis led his troops across a bridge over Ebenezer Creek. On this day, the creek was probably ten-feet-high and the water was cold and rushing wildly. After Davis and his men crossed, but before the contraband could, Davis ordered the bridge to be destroyed. He left the escaped slaves behind. His excuse was that it needed to be done to keep the confederates from following. Davis hated black people and considered them a burden on his resources.

Most of the people left behind couldn’t swim, but with the confederates storming up behind, their choice was to either try and cross, or get caught and enslaved or killed. Many of the people drowned trying to cross the creek, many were killed by the confederates, and many were caught and returned to slavery. Hundreds died that day–men, women, and children.

Later, when General Sherman found out what happened, he was furious. He met with black leaders and asked them what they wanted (for reparations). They all wanted land. That’s when Sherman came up with the “40 acres and a mule” plan for each freed male slave. But a year later, Lincoln was assassinated, and Andrew Johnson became president and rescinded the rule. Davis only got a slap on the wrist. “So,” our guide Bryce said, “the people never got justice.”

“This is a sad story,” Bryce added, “but I think it’s an important story because they don’t teach it. I never learned it in school and no one talks about it. I didn’t learn it till I started working here.”

Hard to Imagine

Listening to Bryce’s story, it was hard for me to believe that this narrow, gentle little creek could drown so many people. But Bryce said, ‘when you don’t know how to swim, and the water’s six-feet higher than now, cold and raging, with confederates coming up behind you . . .’

Well, then I could imagine.

The morning of our kayak trip, however, was calm and beautiful. We kayaked three miles in 2,5 hours.

Ghosts?

Before Bryce told his story, I had asked our other guide, Melanie, if she ever kayaked here at night (she had mentioned knowing someone that did). Her eyes widened and she gave a little shudder, “No.” She then told me how a National Geographic group (?) came down once to hunt for paranormal activity using instruments of some kind.

“They were only going to stay one night, but there was so much activity that they stayed five.”

I said, “So it’s ghosts you mean–the reason you won’t come.”

“That, and alligators. They all come out at night and you see their eyes everywhere. I’ve been out here at dusk and that’s bad enough.”

We saw and learned a lot on this tour. I highly recommend going with the Savannah Canoe and Kayak company.