The Ghost Town of San Juan Capistrano, California

I am pleased to host a guest blog by my daughter, Kate Gough. 

As someone who lives in a bustling and bright coastal city, I often crave some empty space every once in a while. I was looking for an escape to another world. One full of legends, ghost stories, and a creeping feeling that the unknown is lingering behind every corner. I found that in the historic town of San Juan Capistrano, just inland from the beaches of Orange County.

A Podcast To Get In The Mood

To get in the mood, I listened to podcasts on the drive over, detailing the ghost stories and old tragedies that took place in San Juan. My preferred one was by the Haunting History Podcast. The host goes over each eerie detail with the obsessive quality of a true ghost addict. I’ll let you find out for yourself, but there are tales that the town is haunted by a young girl, Magdalena, who was killed when The Great Stone Church crumbled apart, killing 40 people at once. There is also the little boy Charlie, who can sometimes be seen playing with a ball outside the old theater. And The Lady in White, who is known to haunt the town like no other.

The Los Rios Historic District

The Los Rios Historic District is the original downtown of San Juan Capistrano. It grew up in the late 18th century around the building of Mission San Juan Capistrano.

When I first dared to enter the ancient town, the eeriness felt heavy on my chest. It was like I could feel my skin tingling with the unseen spirits around me, drifting aimlessly through the rustic streets.

Magic feels potent in the air, shining through the whimsical shops that line the Los Rios Historic District.

A blue wooden hand taunts visitors from beneath the shrubbery, a large angel baby face leering over, imploring you to come in for a psychic reading.

There are restaurants shaped like teacups, as if sprung straight from the wildest imaginings of the Mad Hatter himself, delightfully decorated for Valentines day, pinks and whites dancing over the serene landscape of the shops.

Burrowed deep within the back garden of one of the pristine white shops, there is a sign that says “Fairies,” dutifully protecting the array of fairy-like dolls and artifacts arranged on the shelves.

A Coffee Break

Now of course, a sweet treat is needed even in a ghost town. The best old-timey and comforting coffee shop around is Hidden House Coffee.

Like the name states, it’s a beautiful hidden coffee shop full of secrets and delicious treats.

I go for my favorite, an iced chai latte with cream on top (light ice, whole milk) and a sugary croissant. The perfect start to a day of exploring.

Mission San Juan Capistrano

After my coffee break, I took off for the main attraction of this town – Mission San Juan Capistrano. The mission was founded on November 1, 1776 by the Spanish Catholic priest Junipero Serra. It was the seventh of twenty-one missions built in California to increase Spain’s territorial claims, as well as to convert native populations to Christianity. You can read more about Mission San Juan Capistrano’s history, including both positive and negative impacts on the native Acjachemen population, at the park’s website.

As you walk around the ancient structures, history seeps from every corner and you can feel the weight of thousands of past footsteps.

There are many signs delving into the rich history of this place throughout, as well as various audio tours.

I took in the silence, walking through the gardens where they made wine and cooked for thousands, the hand-built structures, and the church where Saint Junipero Serra preached to the indigenous Acjachemen people.

It was the church that I’ll never forget.

The Serra Chapel

As I turned toward the hollow, a soft recording of angelic voices drifted through the air, drawing me in. It was haunting. It was breathtaking. It was the glory of God seeping out of the cavernous church in hues of deep red and gold, the army of red candles flickering lights on the walls, the crucifixion of Jesus Christ in view up above.

I cannot explain why my heart began to flutter until I was short of breath, but in this place of ancient holiness, it did. Time slowed as I entered the crimson hall. It seemed to me that the sound of angelic voices reverberated off the golden walls, the wooden pews tempting me to crouch and repent to the Holy Spirit.

I did what any entranced person would do. I walked up to the statue floating high above, Jesus Christ, and gazed on in wonder. I’m not sure how long I was there, but it felt eternal. The pictures will never do it justice.

Dinner Break

After all these mesmerizing experiences, I was feeling quite hungry. Nothing better than El Adobe de Capistrano, President Nixon’s favorite Mexican restaurant, to end the night on a high note.

It was perfect. Loads of crisp chips and salsa with a beautiful atmosphere. I ordered the president’s favorite, the Chicken Poblanos Enchiladas with beans and rice.

Driving home, I listened to Into The Uncanny by Danny Robbins to capture the haunted mood. A perfect spooky day.

For more information about Mission San Juan Capistrano, see their website. And for more information on how the mission impacted the lives of Native Americans, read the FAQ’s and view the videos and articles on this website.