The waterfalls of Yosemite are best in the spring. My husband and I returned to Yosemite in early June, specifically to see the falls and compare them to our trip in October.
Logistics
Once again we stayed at our favorite lodge–The Wawona–forty minutes out of the valley. We planned ahead by bringing cereal, bowls, and a small cooler with milk (there are no refrigerators in Wawona rooms); that way we could eat an early breakfast without having to wait for the restaurant to open. We left by 7 am to get to the valley before 8. In spring and summer It’s hard to get parking much later than that!
It is a one mile walk to the trailhead from the Curry Village parking lot. Then hiking all the way to Nevada Fall and back to the trailhead is 5.4 strenuous miles and a 2000′ climb. I’m proud to say I did it, and it was easier than the last time–thanks to my gym workouts. Not to say I was a champ at it! I had to be very careful going up and down the trail stairs, and I wasn’t fast. But I completed the hike and didn’t fall, so that’s success in my book.
The Hike to Vernal Fall
It was very hot–high 90’s to 101–but we stayed cool on the Mist Trail. In fact, we got totally soaked. It felt great in the heat. The fall was in full flow. There was so much mist that water dripped off the rim of my Tilly hat, like Indiana Jones. But being the complete opposite of Indiana, I hiked slowly, so I told my husband to go on ahead. There were 600 steps to traverse and I took them in a rhythm: step, step, step-together; step, step, step-together. This kept me going and gave my quads a little breather. I made sure to move aside for anyone who needed to pass me on the way up.
The Mist Trail gives hikers a terrific view of the Merced River and Vernal Fall. Looking back the way we came, we could see a full rainbow over the trail and wildly rushing river. Looking forward we could see water gushing over Vernal fall. It was magnificent.
I found my husband at the top. After spending time gazing in awe at Vernal Fall, we walked up river and found a place to rest and eat some snacks. Then we continued up the Mist Trail to Nevada Fall. Last October we cut over to Clark Point and continued up the John Muir Trail to Nevada Fall. The way is longer but less steep. Unfortunately, this time they had some major rock falls on the John Muir Trail and it was closed. So we took the Mist Trail all the way up.
The Hike to Nevada Fall
At first I enjoyed the trail to Nevada Fall and didn’t think it was that bad. Then in got hotter, and steeper–and hotter and steeper. No mist, lots of rock stairs. It seemed never ending and I really didn’t know if I could make it to the top. I was also worried about my legs being shot and having to come back down those rock steps. Luckily, a young woman coming down from the fall saw me looking miserable and told me I was almost there, “I know,” she said, “I was just like you!” So I trusted her and soon enough we reached the top. Phew!
Nevada Fall was amazing. Of course you can see it before you get to the top; in fact, the best view of the fall is from below, but it’s worth going to the top and seeing the view spread out before you. We crossed a short bridge; it was a bit scary to see that wild river rushing underneath us on its way over the lip of Nevada Fall. After looking our fill, we found a place in the shade to eat lunch. The rushing water and roar of the fall filled our ears as we relaxed. As usual, my husband was able to completely fall asleep, while I did my best to doze. After an hour we headed back down the Mist Trail.
The Hike Down
I was worried about how I’d do, because my legs were like noodles. I decided to be deliberate about each step (there were SO many!). I walked like a toddler just learning how to navigate stairs: one step down, then together; one, two, maybe three steps down, then together. It was slow, but like Clint Eastwood said as Dirty Harry: “A man’s GOT to know his limitations.” My slow careful method gave my shaky legs a chance to recover and stopped my forward momentum, which I wouldn’t have had the strength to control. (I’m writing all this to give other hikers like me some tips, hopefully readers don’t mind.) My wonderful husband was patient, waiting for me and looking back to make sure I was okay.
It was much hotter coming down in the afternoon. When we got to Vernal Fall most of the mist had dissipated in the sun. I cooled off by leaning my cheek against a granite wall while water dripped down its side. Ahhh . . lovely.
Finally we made it down and walked back to our car (delayed by a 20-minute debate on where it was. . . I was wrong). We cleaned up the best we could, then had a well deserved dinner at the Mountain Room restaurant at Yosemite Lodge.
I will leave you with a video of Vernal and Nevada Falls. Enjoy!
